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Obsidian-Vault/Personal/Areas/Home improvement/Bathroom.md
Vincent Verbruggen 59d2fe286f vault backup: 2026-03-07 11:51:57
2026-03-07 11:51:57 +01:00

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Bathroom Renovation

Started: 2026-03-07 Status: Planning

Current State

Describe what the bathroom looks like now: dimensions, fixtures, materials, condition.

  • Dimensions: L-shaped, see blueprint. Long edge (F) 2600mm, top (A) 2500mm, bottom (E) 1500mm, nook 1000x1000mm
  • Ceiling height: 2400mm
  • Current flooring: TODO
  • Current wall finish: TODO
  • Fixtures:
    • Sink/vanity: 550x350mm on wall F, 50mm from wall E (between bath and door)
    • Shower: ~1000x1000 nook (top-right corner), water point middle of wall B
    • Bathtub (current): 1850x850, upper-left corner along wall F, water point middle of bath on wall F
    • Bathtub (planned): freestanding corner bath ~1800x800 (no brick surround)
    • Mirror: large mirror with diffuse ring light (keeping)
    • Shelf: wall A, 800mm long, 250mm deep, 500mm from wall F — want to keep something similar here (visual break, not necessarily storage)
    • Sink-side storage: two IKEA TISKEN suction cup baskets on wall F next to sink — functional but need a nicer replacement
  • Plumbing location: shower water on wall B, bath water on wall F
  • Ventilation: vent on wall D (centered on radiator, no window). Connected to whole-house mechanical ventilation — single motor just behind the opening. Currently always open, causing heat loss.
  • Electrical:
  • Heating: towel rail radiator on wall D, 600mm wide, 600mm from door — needs replacing. Tado smart heating system with pre-heat scheduling.

Goals / Requirements

What should the new bathroom achieve?

  • Keep the bathtub — replacing with a freestanding corner bath (~1800x800, no brick surround)
  • Keep the shower in the existing nook
  • No toilet (no room, not needed)
  • TODO — style/aesthetic direction

Blueprint

Current

!Bathroom Blueprint copy.svg

Future

!Bathroom Blueprint Future.svg

Materials & Finishes

Element Choice Supplier / Link Price
Floor tiles
Wall tiles
Shower screen
Bathtub (freestanding)
Sink / vanity
Faucets
Mirror / cabinet
Lighting
Paint / other

Budget

Category Estimated Actual
Materials
Labour
Plumbing
Electrical
Unexpected / contingency (15%)
Total

Contractor / DIY Plan

  • DIY: list tasks you handle yourself
  • Professional: list tasks that need a contractor
  • Contacts:
    • Plumber: name, phone
    • Electrician: name, phone
    • Tiler: name, phone

Timeline

Phase Target Date Done
Planning & design
Demolition
Plumbing rough-in
Electrical rough-in
Waterproofing
Tiling
Fixture installation
Finishing touches

Things to Think About

Ventilation — Upgrade the Vent Grille

  • The bathroom connects to a whole-house mechanical ventilation system (single motor behind the vent opening on wall D). There is no separate bathroom fan — the central system provides extraction.
  • Problem: The vent is always open, which means continuous heat loss and unnecessary suction when the bathroom is dry. The motor runs regardless.
  • Solution: humidity-sensitive vent grille. These exist and work without electricity — a polyamide strip inside the grille expands/contracts with moisture, mechanically opening/closing the shutter. When humidity rises (shower, bath), the grille opens fully. When the room is dry, it closes to a minimum, reducing heat loss and balancing airflow across the house.
  • Options:
    • Aereco EHT² — wall-mounted humidity-sensitive inlet, fully mechanical (no power), up to 52 dB acoustic insulation. Designed for exactly this use case: existing mechanical ventilation with passive grille replacement. This is the most directly applicable product.
    • Aereco humidity-sensitive exhaust grilles — if the vent is on the extraction side (which it is), Aereco also makes extraction-side grilles that modulate airflow based on room humidity.
    • Electronic alternative: A humidity sensor switch (e.g. Topgreener TDHS5, Lutron Maestro MS-HS3) could control a motorised damper, but this adds wiring complexity. The passive Aereco approach is simpler for a central system.
  • During renovation: This is the ideal time to swap the grille. The duct behind it is already there. Just measure the duct diameter/opening size and match an Aereco or equivalent product to it.

Lighting

  • Both lights are Philips Hue White Ambiance — tuneable colour temperature (2200-6500K) and dimmable via the Hue app or automation. No hardware dimmer needed.
  • The Devere (IP44) covers ambient, the Adore handles task lighting at the mirror. That covers all essential layers.
  • If adding anything, a small accent (LED strip in a shower niche) is the only gap. Not essential.

Waterproofing — Do Not Cut Corners

  • The entire shower area and bath surround must be tanked (liquid membrane or sheet membrane) before tiling. This is non-negotiable.
  • Extend waterproofing at least 150mm beyond the shower/bath edges. Many professionals recommend tanking the full wet wall floor-to-ceiling.
  • The floor should be fully waterproofed, especially at the bath and shower zones.
  • Use flexible waterproof tape on all inside corners and pipe penetrations.
  • Get this inspected before tiling — you cannot fix it later without ripping tiles off.

The L-Shape: Use It

  • The nook (1000x1000) is a natural shower enclosure. A single glass panel or frameless screen is all you need — the walls do the rest.
  • The L-shape creates a natural separation between wet zone (shower/bath side) and dry zone (sink/door side). Lean into that.
  • Consider where the towel rail goes — the wall between the sink and the door (wall E, 550mm segment) or the inside of wall D above the radiator.

Style Directions Worth Exploring

  • Warm spa: matte stone-look porcelain, oak or walnut vanity, brushed nickel, soft mirror lighting, muted green or clay accents.
  • Quiet hotel: seamless tile palette, floating vanity, frameless shower glass, minimal grout contrast, concealed storage.
  • Vintage modern: characterful floor tile, more furniture-like vanity, framed mirror, decorative sconces, warmer metal finishes.

Plumbing: Keep It Where It Is

  • Moving drain lines is expensive and disruptive (especially in concrete floors). If the current drain positions work, keep them.
  • Moving supply lines (hot/cold) is much cheaper than moving drains. Adjusting tap positions on the same wall is usually straightforward.
  • If replacing the bath, confirm the new one fits the same drain position or plan a short drain extension.

Heated Floor — Probably Not

  • At 2400mm ceiling height, adding underfloor heating raises the floor ~15-20mm (mat + adhesive + tile build-up vs direct tile). That eats into an already low ceiling.
  • With Tado you can pre-heat the room via the towel radiator on a schedule, which largely solves the cold-floor-in-the-morning problem.
  • A good towel rail radiator replacement gives you warm towels and room heating in one. Prioritise that over underfloor heating.
  • If you still want warm feet, a small electric bath mat is a zero-build-up alternative.

Tile Choices

  • Large format tiles (600x600 or larger) with thin grout lines make a small room feel bigger. Fewer grout lines also means less cleaning.
  • Light colours reflect light and help compensate for the lack of a window. Dark feature walls can work but keep them to one wall max.
  • Consider the same tile on floor and walls (or floor and lower walls) for a seamless look that visually expands the space.
  • Non-slip rating matters, especially for the shower floor. Look for R10 or R11 rated tiles in the wet zone.

Storage

  • In a small bathroom, surface clutter kills the feel fast. Plan recessed niches in the shower wall during the build — much cheaper than retrofitting and they do not eat floor space.
  • A mirrored cabinet above the sink gives storage and a mirror in one.
  • If the vanity is wall-mounted (floating), the visible floor underneath makes the room feel larger.
  • Wall A shelf (existing: 800x250mm, 500mm from wall F): The current shelf breaks up the long wall nicely. Consider replacing with a similar floating shelf in a material that matches the new design (e.g. solid oak, stone-look composite, or a tiled niche built into the wall). It does not need to be deep — 150–250mm is enough for candles, a plant, or decorative objects.
  • Sink-side storage (replacing TISKEN baskets): Options that look better than suction cup baskets:
    • Wall-mounted wire or metal basket shelf (e.g. matte black steel) — screwed in, not suction
    • Small floating shelf or pair of shelves next to the mirror
    • If the vanity has drawers, move most items inside and keep the wall clean
    • A recessed niche in wall F next to the sink (decide during tiling phase — cannot add later)

Light Switch: Need a Physical Switch with Smart Control

  • The Hue lights are smart-controlled, but a physical wall switch is still needed (guests, muscle memory, building codes in some areas).
  • If someone flips a dumb switch and cuts power, the Hue bulbs go offline. A smart switch solves this.
  • Options compatible with Philips Hue:
    • Philips Hue Wall Switch Module — installs behind your existing switch plate. The physical switch stays but toggles a Hue scene instead of cutting power. Easiest drop-in solution. ~€40.
    • RunLessWire Click for Philips Hue — wireless, battery-free (kinetic energy). Pairs natively with the Hue Bridge. Can be placed anywhere, no wiring. ~€35–50.
    • Friends of Hue switches (Senic / Gira) — built-in wall switches using Zigbee Green Power (no battery). Premium look, proper wall-plate form factor. Pair directly with Hue Bridge. €50–100+ depending on brand/finish.
    • Inovelli Blue Series — Zigbee 3.0 in-wall switch with built-in humidity sensor (useful for a windowless bathroom). Does not pair directly with Hue Bridge; requires SmartThings or Home Assistant as a bridge. More complex but more capable. ~$50.
  • Recommendation: The Hue Wall Switch Module is the simplest if you already have a switch plate. If you want a clean wireless option with no wiring at all, the RunLessWire Click is worth considering.

Radiator Replacement

  • The existing towel rail radiator on wall D needs replacing. Same position works (vent is above it, plumbing connections are there).
  • Size the replacement to the available space: 600mm wide, fitting between the vent above and the 600mm gap to the door below.
  • Consider a vertical towel rail if you want more hanging space — a taller, narrower unit could work if the vent position allows it.
  • With Tado controlling the schedule, the radiator does double duty: room pre-heating and towel warming.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Not budgeting for contingency (15% minimum). There are always surprises behind old tiles.
  • Choosing fixtures before confirming they physically fit. Measure clearances: 200mm minimum from sink centre to side wall, 600mm clear in front of any fixture.
  • Forgetting about the door swing — yours opens outward (good), so no conflict, but check nothing blocks it from the corridor side.
  • Skipping a site visit with your plumber before demolition. Let them see the existing setup and flag issues.
  • Over-specifying trendy finishes that date quickly. Neutral base, personality through accessories.

If I Were Optimizing This Layout

  • Keep the shower in the existing nook unless plumbing constraints make it painful. That part of the plan is already doing useful work.
  • Use a wall-hung vanity with drawers rather than a freestanding cabinet. In a room this size, visible floor area helps.
  • Make the freestanding bath feel deliberate: consider a ledge or niche nearby, proper bath filler position, and enough surrounding calm that it reads as an asset rather than leftover compromise.
  • Reduce the number of finish changes. A smaller room usually benefits from calm surfaces more than from visual variety.

Notes

Reference / Inspiration

Current Sources Worth Trusting

Trends & Ideas (2025-2026)

Mistakes to Avoid

Shower + Bath Combos

Budget & Planning

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