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Obsidian-Vault/Personal/Areas/Home improvement/Bathroom.md
Vincent Verbruggen 3c4e4387fa vault backup: 2026-03-07 15:26:34
2026-03-07 15:26:34 +01:00

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Bathroom Renovation

Started: 2026-03-07 Status: Planning

Current State

Describe what the bathroom looks like now: dimensions, fixtures, materials, condition.

  • Dimensions: L-shaped, see blueprint. Long edge (F) 2600mm, top (A) 2500mm, bottom (E) 1500mm, nook 1000x1000mm
  • Ceiling height: 2400mm
  • Current flooring: TODO
  • Current wall finish: TODO
  • Fixtures:
    • Sink/vanity: 550x350mm on wall F, 50mm from wall E (between bath and door)
    • Shower: ~1000x1000 nook (top-right corner), water point middle of wall B
    • Bathtub (current): 1850x850, upper-left corner along wall F, water point middle of bath on wall F
    • Bathtub (planned): freestanding corner bath ~1800x800 (no brick surround)
    • Mirror: large mirror with diffuse ring light (keeping)
    • Shelf: wall A, 800mm long, 250mm deep, 500mm from wall F — want to keep something similar here (visual break, not necessarily storage)
    • Shower mirror: ~300mm small mirror in the shower for shaving — want to keep this in the future bathroom. Suction cup mount is probably best (removable, no drilling). See bol.com scheerspiegels
    • Sink-side storage: two IKEA TISKEN suction cup baskets on wall F next to sink — functional but need a nicer replacement
  • Plumbing location: shower water on wall B, bath water on wall F
  • Ventilation: vent on wall D, 200mm wide, 750mm from wall E (no window). Connected to whole-house mechanical ventilation — single motor just behind the opening. Currently always open, causing heat loss.
  • Electrical:
  • Heating: towel rail radiator on wall D, 600mm wide, 600mm from door — needs replacing. Tado smart heating system with pre-heat scheduling.

Goals / Requirements

What should the new bathroom achieve?

  • Keep the bathtub — replacing with a freestanding corner bath (~1800x800, no brick surround)
  • Keep the shower in the existing nook
  • No toilet (no room, not needed)
  • TODO — style/aesthetic direction

Blueprint

Current

!Bathroom Blueprint copy.svg

Future

!Bathroom Blueprint Future.svg

Materials & Finishes

Element Choice Supplier / Link Price
Floor tiles Mirage Glocal 80x80 Perfect gerectificeerd — betonlook, 0.9cm dik, V2 kleurvariatie. Vloer ~5.5m² + 15% snijverlies = ~6.4m² (5 dozen à 1.28m²) Saniweb ~€512 (€80/m² × 6.4m²)
Wall tiles Maxaro Blanco 30x60 wit glanzend gerectificeerd — uni wit, 8mm dik. Wanden ~22.9m² (excl. deur) + 15% snijverlies = ~26.3m² Maxaro ~€329 (€12.50/m² × 26.3m²)
Shower tray Maxaro 100x100cm mineraalmarmer mat wit — need to see in person Maxaro ~€400 (alternatief: geen tray, extra vloertegels ~€80 + drain)
Shower drain Douchegoot 90cm tegel+plaat rooster RVS — tile-style drain (preferred) Maxaro ~€160
Shower set Opbouw regendouche, thermostatisch, multi-spray. Hansgrohe Vernis Blend, Grohe Vitalio/Tempesta Saniweb / Warmteservice ~€400-800
Shower screen Douchewand/deur voor nook — nog kiezen TBD ~€500
Bathtub (freestanding) Maxaro Velino hoekbad 180x80 acryl mat wit — acryl, mat wit. Budget optie. / Ben Vana 180x80 mat wit — acryl, mat wit, premium. / Basento 170x80 solid surface mat wit — solid surface, premium materiaal, maar 170x80 (10cm korter — past dat?). NB: matte = mild cleaners only, no bleach/chloor Maxaro / Saniweb €1.450 / €2.000 / €1.900
Sink / vanity Maxaro configuratie — wastafelmeubel incl. kraan en spiegel(kast) Maxaro ~€850
Faucets (incl. in wastafelmeubel hierboven) — —
Mirror / cabinet (incl. in wastafelmeubel hierboven) — —
Lighting Hue Devere + Adore (keeping) already owned €0
Radiator Kepler 55x174 mat zwart 1242W alu or Oberon 55x130 mat zwart 471W staal Maxaro ~€400
Vent grille Humidity-sensitive (Aereco or similar) TBD ~€50-100
Light switch Hue Wall Switch Module or similar TBD ~€40-50
Tiling labour (zetten) Vloer ~6.4m² + wanden ~26.3m² = ~32.7m² — ~€981 (€30/m² × 32.7m²)
Wall prep (egaliseren) Wanden egaliseren na verwijderen oude tegels. Wanden ~22.9m² + plafond ~5.5m² = ~28.4m² — ~€568 (€20/m² × 28.4m²)
Paint / other

Budget

Category Estimated Actual
Materials (tiles, fixtures, fittings) ~€4.700–5.100
Labour (tiling + wall prep) ~€1.549
Plumbing TBD
Electrical TBD
Unexpected / contingency (15%) ~€940–1.000
Total (materials + known labour) ~€7.200–7.650

Note: Using Basento (€1.900) as baseline. Velino saves €450, Ben Vana adds €100. Shower set range €400–800 (midpoint used). Plumbing and electrical labour not yet estimated.

Contractor / DIY Plan

  • DIY: list tasks you handle yourself
  • Professional: list tasks that need a contractor
  • Contacts:
    • Plumber: name, phone
    • Electrician: name, phone
    • Tiler: name, phone

Timeline

Phase Target Date Done
Planning & design
Demolition
Plumbing rough-in
Electrical rough-in
Waterproofing
Tiling
Fixture installation
Finishing touches

Things to Think About

Ventilation — Upgrade the Vent Grille

  • The bathroom connects to a whole-house mechanical ventilation system (single motor behind the vent opening on wall D). There is no separate bathroom fan — the central system provides extraction.
  • Problem: The vent is always open, which means continuous heat loss and unnecessary suction when the bathroom is dry. The motor runs regardless.
  • Solution: humidity-sensitive vent grille. These exist and work without electricity — a polyamide strip inside the grille expands/contracts with moisture, mechanically opening/closing the shutter. When humidity rises (shower, bath), the grille opens fully. When the room is dry, it closes to a minimum, reducing heat loss and balancing airflow across the house.
  • Options:
    • Aereco EHT² — wall-mounted humidity-sensitive inlet, fully mechanical (no power), up to 52 dB acoustic insulation. Designed for exactly this use case: existing mechanical ventilation with passive grille replacement. This is the most directly applicable product.
    • Aereco humidity-sensitive exhaust grilles — if the vent is on the extraction side (which it is), Aereco also makes extraction-side grilles that modulate airflow based on room humidity.
    • Electronic alternative: A humidity sensor switch (e.g. Topgreener TDHS5, Lutron Maestro MS-HS3) could control a motorised damper, but this adds wiring complexity. The passive Aereco approach is simpler for a central system.
  • During renovation: This is the ideal time to swap the grille. The duct behind it is already there. Just measure the duct diameter/opening size and match an Aereco or equivalent product to it.

Lighting

  • Both lights are Philips Hue White Ambiance — tuneable colour temperature (2200-6500K) and dimmable via the Hue app or automation. No hardware dimmer needed.
  • The Devere (IP44) covers ambient, the Adore handles task lighting at the mirror. That covers all essential layers.
  • If adding anything, a small accent (LED strip in a shower niche) is the only gap. Not essential.

Waterproofing — Do Not Cut Corners

  • The entire shower area and bath surround must be tanked (liquid membrane or sheet membrane) before tiling. This is non-negotiable.
  • Extend waterproofing at least 150mm beyond the shower/bath edges. Many professionals recommend tanking the full wet wall floor-to-ceiling.
  • The floor should be fully waterproofed, especially at the bath and shower zones.
  • Use flexible waterproof tape on all inside corners and pipe penetrations.
  • Get this inspected before tiling — you cannot fix it later without ripping tiles off.

The L-Shape: Use It

  • The nook (1000x1000) is a natural shower enclosure. A single glass panel or frameless screen is all you need — the walls do the rest.
  • The L-shape creates a natural separation between wet zone (shower/bath side) and dry zone (sink/door side). Lean into that.
  • Consider where the towel rail goes — the wall between the sink and the door (wall E, 550mm segment) or the inside of wall D above the radiator.

Style Directions Worth Exploring

  • Warm spa: matte stone-look porcelain, oak or walnut vanity, brushed nickel, soft mirror lighting, muted green or clay accents.
  • Quiet hotel: seamless tile palette, floating vanity, frameless shower glass, minimal grout contrast, concealed storage.
  • Vintage modern: characterful floor tile, more furniture-like vanity, framed mirror, decorative sconces, warmer metal finishes.

Plumbing: Keep It Where It Is

  • Moving drain lines is expensive and disruptive (especially in concrete floors). If the current drain positions work, keep them.
  • Moving supply lines (hot/cold) is much cheaper than moving drains. Adjusting tap positions on the same wall is usually straightforward.
  • If replacing the bath, confirm the new one fits the same drain position or plan a short drain extension.

Heated Floor — Probably Not

  • At 2400mm ceiling height, adding underfloor heating raises the floor ~15-20mm (mat + adhesive + tile build-up vs direct tile). That eats into an already low ceiling.
  • With Tado you can pre-heat the room via the towel radiator on a schedule, which largely solves the cold-floor-in-the-morning problem.
  • A good towel rail radiator replacement gives you warm towels and room heating in one. Prioritise that over underfloor heating.
  • If you still want warm feet, a small electric bath mat is a zero-build-up alternative.

Tile Choices

  • Large format tiles (600x600 or larger) with thin grout lines make a small room feel bigger. Fewer grout lines also means less cleaning.
  • Light colours reflect light and help compensate for the lack of a window. Dark feature walls can work but keep them to one wall max.
  • Consider the same tile on floor and walls (or floor and lower walls) for a seamless look that visually expands the space.
  • Non-slip rating matters, especially for the shower floor. Look for R10 or R11 rated tiles in the wet zone.

Storage

  • In a small bathroom, surface clutter kills the feel fast. Plan recessed niches in the shower wall during the build — much cheaper than retrofitting and they do not eat floor space.
  • A mirrored cabinet above the sink gives storage and a mirror in one.
  • If the vanity is wall-mounted (floating), the visible floor underneath makes the room feel larger.
  • Wall A shelf (existing: 800x250mm, 500mm from wall F): The current shelf breaks up the long wall nicely. Consider replacing with a similar floating shelf in a material that matches the new design (e.g. solid oak, stone-look composite, or a tiled niche built into the wall). It does not need to be deep — 150–250mm is enough for candles, a plant, or decorative objects.
  • Sink-side storage (replacing TISKEN baskets): Options that look better than suction cup baskets:
    • Wall-mounted wire or metal basket shelf (e.g. matte black steel) — screwed in, not suction
    • Small floating shelf or pair of shelves next to the mirror
    • If the vanity has drawers, move most items inside and keep the wall clean
    • A recessed niche in wall F next to the sink (decide during tiling phase — cannot add later)

Light Switch: Need a Physical Switch with Smart Control

  • The Hue lights are smart-controlled, but a physical wall switch is still needed (guests, muscle memory, building codes in some areas).
  • If someone flips a dumb switch and cuts power, the Hue bulbs go offline. A smart switch solves this.
  • Options compatible with Philips Hue:
    • Philips Hue Wall Switch Module — installs behind your existing switch plate. The physical switch stays but toggles a Hue scene instead of cutting power. Easiest drop-in solution. ~€40.
    • RunLessWire Click for Philips Hue — wireless, battery-free (kinetic energy). Pairs natively with the Hue Bridge. Can be placed anywhere, no wiring. ~€35–50.
    • Friends of Hue switches (Senic / Gira) — built-in wall switches using Zigbee Green Power (no battery). Premium look, proper wall-plate form factor. Pair directly with Hue Bridge. €50–100+ depending on brand/finish.
    • Inovelli Blue Series — Zigbee 3.0 in-wall switch with built-in humidity sensor (useful for a windowless bathroom). Does not pair directly with Hue Bridge; requires SmartThings or Home Assistant as a bridge. More complex but more capable. ~$50.
  • Recommendation: The Hue Wall Switch Module is the simplest if you already have a switch plate. If you want a clean wireless option with no wiring at all, the RunLessWire Click is worth considering.

Radiator Replacement

  • The existing towel rail radiator on wall D needs replacing. Same position works (vent is above it, plumbing connections are there).
  • Size the replacement to the available space: 550mm wide fits the wall, 600mm gap to door below, vent at 750mm from wall E.
  • With Tado controlling the schedule, the radiator does double duty: room pre-heating and towel warming.
  • Options (matte black, central heating):
    • Kepler — 550x1740mm, 1242W, aluminium. Tall and powerful. At 1740mm height it would start ~600mm from floor (above door gap) and reach ~2340mm — just under the 2400mm ceiling. Leaves ~60mm clearance. Tight but doable.
    • Oberon — 550x1300mm, 471W, steel. More compact, fits comfortably in the space (600mm + 1300mm = 1900mm, well under ceiling). Lower output — check if 471W is sufficient for the room volume (~11.8 m³).
  • Fit note: Both are 550mm wide (current radiator is 600mm). The vent is at 750mm from wall E — the Kepler would overlap vertically with the vent position. Confirm whether the vent can sit above the radiator or if there needs to be clearance between them.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Not budgeting for contingency (15% minimum). There are always surprises behind old tiles.
  • Choosing fixtures before confirming they physically fit. Measure clearances: 200mm minimum from sink centre to side wall, 600mm clear in front of any fixture.
  • Forgetting about the door swing — yours opens outward (good), so no conflict, but check nothing blocks it from the corridor side.
  • Skipping a site visit with your plumber before demolition. Let them see the existing setup and flag issues.
  • Over-specifying trendy finishes that date quickly. Neutral base, personality through accessories.

If I Were Optimizing This Layout

  • Keep the shower in the existing nook unless plumbing constraints make it painful. That part of the plan is already doing useful work.
  • Use a wall-hung vanity with drawers rather than a freestanding cabinet. In a room this size, visible floor area helps.
  • Make the freestanding bath feel deliberate: consider a ledge or niche nearby, proper bath filler position, and enough surrounding calm that it reads as an asset rather than leftover compromise.
  • Reduce the number of finish changes. A smaller room usually benefits from calm surfaces more than from visual variety.

Notes

Reference / Inspiration

Current Sources Worth Trusting

Trends & Ideas (2025-2026)

Mistakes to Avoid

Shower + Bath Combos

Budget & Planning

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